I on the other hand, am no writer...I have just finished studying Costume Design and Construction at uni and fancied a bit of an adventure before heading back to the real world where I have to pretend to be an actual adult. Not everyone has the luxury of being able to take a year or two out - so this blog will just be used to keep friends and family up to date (most of whom seem to think I'll perish on this trip...). So for their peace of mind and my interest, I will comply a 'kind of' guide to travelling around South East Asia for two months as a solo female! (Stong, independent woman and all...who don't need no companion!)
Day 1 & 2 (Sunday-Monday May 10th-11th 2015):
Obviously flying economy wasn't going to be the most pleasant experience....squashed between two larger, smelly gentlemen for the latter half of the flight was pretty dire, but I made it into Bangkok Suvarnabhumi airport on time. I made my way to the city line train for Phaya Thai (costing 75Baht - approx £1.40) where I managed to fall asleep as the train weaved its way through the city - only to wake myself up with a large snore...
Suvarnabhumi Airport - Phaya Thai via SRT-City Airlink (75Baht):
After a good hour on the train, it pulled to a stop and I made my way to exit 2 - by which point it was midday, 36 degrees, 80% humidity, and I was melting! I decided to grab a TukTuk to Khaosan Road which cost me 200Baht (approx £4). In hindsight I probably could have bartered this price down, or taken an air conditioned taxi for the same price, but hindsight is a wonderful thing! The TukTuk gave me a true Thai experience and I only prayed for my life a handful of times...Whoever said that the drivers over here were bad, is wrong...it's quite a skill to drive on the wrong side of the road, dodge in and out of trucks, busses and animals and live to tell the tale!
I knew where I wanted to stay tonight - the Siam Oriental house. I stayed here a few years ago when in Bangkok and the rooms were cheap and clean! This time I went for the cheapest option - 360Baht (approx £6.80) and that got me a single room with a fan and a private shower and toilet. Simple, cheap and clean. Last time I stayed here we treated ourselves to air con, but when splitting the room cost it works out cheaper anyway! (500Baht for two people I think) Flying solo is always going to be more costly. Maybe i'll treat myself on the way back (if I have any money to spare)!
Siam Orietnal, Khaosan Road - 360Baht (deposit was taken and will retrieve when I leave):
Day 3 (Tuesday May 12th 2015)
After catching up on some sleep I headed out to the markets on Khaosan Road for some breakfast, where I sat in a bar and enjoyed an ice cold lemonade shake for 50Baht (£1). A solo traveller asked to join me and we ended up heading out to China Town together - where we decided to try the local bus! A taxi would have cost us 100-150Baht (£1-£1.50), but the bus cost us......8Baht! That's not even 20p, so winner. We did managed to get on the wrong bus...but they didn't charge us and took us along the road to the correct bus stop (that would never happen in Britain!) plus we got ten minutes of air con before stepping onto the correct bus (which barely had any sides, let alone air con!) Perhaps a bit longer than less comfortable than a taxi - but cheap cheap cheap!
I loved the narrow market stalls that can be found all over China Town, so although I'd been a few years ago, I was eager to go again. Wonderous smells, fabrics, foods and everything else you can imagine! I refrained from buying anything other than a fan - but no doubt will stock up on teapots and other knick knacks on my way back (you can't have too many teapots...).
China Town via bus number 1 - 8Baht
After deciding to get a TukTuk back for 100Baht (£2), I popped to my room and collected a shawl to cover my shoulders in order to visit the temple just a few seconds walk away. Sadly the temple was under repair, so although I could still walk around and go inside, the outside was covered in scaffolding. Smaller monuments surrounding the temple were stunning though - all beautiful in golds and reds.
Pretty hot and sweaty by this point (having walked about in a long dress and shawl) I wandered slowly back to Khaoson Road, where I bought myself a handmade cloth thingy...which can be stuffed with pillows or clothes and used as a foot stool - before heading back to my room for an ice cold shower!
Last night, I ventured out for some Pad Thai (tasty street food costing only 30Baht -65p) and spent the next few hours talking to a local girl called Ying. We spoke about Scotland, Thailand, my life, her life...she showed me X-rays she had taken during her day job at the local hospital - something she seemed so passionate about! After a full day at work she would journey to Khaosan road every night with her sister to sell food to us tourists until 2am - impressive.
But alas, final day in Bangkok - three full days is definitely enough in this city! The hussle and bussle is fascinating, and I could people watch for hours, but the pollution is thick in the air. I thought I would visit somewhere I hadn't been on my last visit before taking the sleeper train up north to Chaing Mai. After looking at things to do nearby, I found that the Bangkok National Museum was only a ten minute walk away. I took a screenshot of the map on my phone and checked out of my room (leaving my heavy bag in their back room). Despite having a map in hand, I managed to walk in a big circle and end up at the exact same spot I started...directions never were my forte, but to be fair the tiny twisty streets all look the same to me! So I bit the bullet and hopped onto a TukTuk and arrived at the museum within a few minutes.
The museum was fantastic - I spent hours walking around the large exhibition rooms, all of which had English discriptions as well as Thai. Entry was 200Baht (£4), but 200Baht well spent. The museum was full to the brim with artefacts, paintings, ornate buildings and statues all depicting Hindu and Buddhist gods and goddess. I even managed to take a few Buddha selfies! The place was quiet and peaceful compared to the city streets, and highly recommended in my opinion. There may be hundreds of photos, but this is me holding back - I took so many!
I managed to find my own way back to Khaoson road (very proud of myself!) and stopped for a bite to eat before beginning my adventure to Chaing Mai! The next part of my day is where I messed up a bit on my original plan...I was trying to be ambitious and walk from Khaosan Road to Hua Lampong Railway Station (with my bags too!). Google maps lied. 40 minutes my arse! I had already walked for 40 minutes and I wasn't even a quarter of the way there. Drenched in sweat by this point, I was about to give up and get a TukTuk, but ended up being lead into the tourist information after being told I couldn't get a train ticket at the station - but had to book beforehand. I should have stuck to my guns because I was sure I could get a ticket there. They were adamant that I couldn't and I ended up buying a package which included my train ticket, 2 nights in a hotel, food, the two day slow boat, and all taxis inbetween. All together it cost me 5100Baht (around £110). When I finally got to the station - I found that I was in fact able to buy a ticket there. I'm still so angry at myself for not sticking to my instincts and not having faith in my own research - but I won't be doing it again. With the commision charged by these travel agents, I probably lost out on around £20. This may not seem like much, but £20 goes a long way here! Plus, it's better in my pocket. What's done is done! And at least I have the next week mapped out. I had wanted to stay in a hotel called the VIP House, which was recommended to me by a collegue, but sadly not this time.
So, the sleeper train! I arrived at the station early and spoke to some travellers who were getting the same train. At 6pm loud music started playing, and everyone stood up. Not knowing what was happening, I stood up too...I think it was a sign of respect or worship for the King. I may be wrong though!
I borded the train at 7:30pm having made the rooky mistake of not getting cash out! My travel card - which I was told could be used almost everywhere in Thailand, could be used almost nowhere in Thailand. So I had a hungry night ahead of me. Making my way to my folding out top bunk at 9pm, I tried and failed to sleep. Trains here are nothing like those in Britain! Bumpy, rocky, noisy and with the lights on all night, I lay awake reading for the majority of the journey.
Chairs folded into lower bunk. Upper bunk folds out from wall.
Day 5 (Thursday May 14th 2015)
7am and still on the train...after having a wash (well, tried to) I got talking to a guy from Germany who also planned on renting a moped and taking the trail up to Doi Inthanon National Park tomorrow. As neither of us had been before, we arranged to meet in the morning and take the trip together. I would much rather get lost in company than on my own! I have a map printed and guide printed though so hopefully it won't come to that!
Day 6 (Friday 15th May 2015)
Had an amazing/scary day today! To begin with I rented a moped for 250Baht (£4.50) and drove early morning to meet Oliver in town. I got lost. Very lost. It's terrible that I can't survive without GPS, and clearly I can't because I ended up on the complete opposite side of town to where we had arranged. So, I stayed where I was and Oliver used his GPS to find me! Ready to leave, (perhaps slightly behind schedule!) we headed along the 108 Highway for a few hours and arrived at Doi Inthanon - which was surprisingly straight forward! We paid 300Baht for entry into the National Park which was well worth it! Before reaching the summit, we stopped off at two beautiful temples, with amazing views and beautiful gardens.
We then reached the summit a bit further up (pretty steep hills for a moped!) and had our photo taken at the highest point. I was expecting the summit to have spectacular views...but the highest point is actually in the jungle. The views from the temples made up for that and more though!
On our way back down we saw a sign for the Huag Saai Leung Waterfall. It was quite a distance getting there...plus the rain had started!
We stayed for a while at the waterfall and decided to head home around 4pm...hoping to be in the Chaing Mai City before full darkness came! But alas...somehow when we left the waterfall we took a wrong turn and exited the National Park via the back entrance. There were no sign posts so we assumed we were heading to the exit. After a while we wondered why we hadn't passed the barriers...turns out there is no barrier at the back (so we could have entered for free! - although an extra 2 hours out the way so not worth it) So because there was no barrier, we had driven quite far out the park and were heading the opposite way to Chaing Mai! During our desent through the National Park we drove through torrential monsoon rain, whilst navigating the moped up and down steep hills. It was pretty scary and hard to see! So we decided to take the longer way back and drive around the national park instead of through it (we had driven past an accident during the downpour and didn't fancy being the next ones to have an accident!). Four or maybe five hours later, we got to Chaing Mai. We drove through rural Thailand which was stunning, but pretty scary for me at night. Huge lorries overtaking on corners, potholes on the road and travelling at a high speed whilst wearing just shorts, a t-shirt and a helmet! Was actually really scared but I am alive! I won't be driving in the dark on a moped through the jungle/countryside ever again! What an adventure though. Got back to Chaing Mai...had a well deserved meal at 11pm (had barely eaten all day) then got a good nights sleep. Currently waiting for my taxi this morning (16th May) to my slow boat to Laos!
Day 7 (Saturday 16th May 2015)
The taxi picked me up at 10am, along with 9 others. This had to be the more comfortable journey so far! I can't remember exactly how long we were driving from Chiang Mai to Chiang Khong, but I think it was around 6 hours (with full air con!) we stopped off at points along the way, and arrived at our "hotel" where we would be stopping for the night before the slow boat the next day. This is when I realised the package was a bit of a sham! The rooms were appalling! I'm not afraid of slumming it a bit, but there were wires hanging out of the walls in the bathroom, holes for toilets, light switches hanging off the walls, a bed that was basically like sleeping of a plank of wood, and writing on the walls that read, "Welcome to hell". Plus no wifi. The pictures we were shown at the travel agents boasted of a swimming pool, air con, comfy beds etc etc. That resort was next door! Oh well. A few people paid around 200Baht to stay next door, which is nothing really. But I thought I'd just stay there and save the pennies!
Day 8 (Sunday 17th May)
We then sorted our currencies and documentations ready to cross the border and pay for our 30 day visas ($35 for Britain). Another taxi journey for around an hour, through passport control, onto the shuttle bus, onto the slow boat, and here I am! 7 hours today, then a room booked for tonight before the second half of the slow boat journey to Luang Probang! New country, new blog post!
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